How Much Does Owning a 1991 Mazda RX-7 Actually Cost?

Since 2018, I have probably racked up almost 200,000 km behind the wheel of various vehicles (brand-new SUVs, vans, sports cars, station wagons, etc). I bought my 1991 Mazda RX-7 FC3S Turbo II in November. I don't have an exact figure here, but I've only used it for about 2,485 miles (4,000 km). I'm celebrating six years of ownership in a few months, and it has been a ride.

If there's one thing that gives me hope, it's following other projects on owner groups: most people seem to take at least six years to finish their builds! So, I guess I'm on the right path.

And I'm writing this story for those of you who are also considering joining the Rotary family. What you'll read here is meant to tell you what expenses you should expect. But of course, these will vary depending on your current location, experience with cars, connections, and target for your future FC RX-7.

Six Years of Ownership Total

Most project car owners will try to avoid thinking about how much they've spent on them. But I'll bet you most people can quickly do the math if required to. I have a rough idea of how much this car has cost me so far, but let me break it down for you. I bought it in November of 2018, before the global pandemic. Prices were already going up in Germany, the UK and Japan. But I spotted the opportunity to buy it in Greece, where the market was still somewhat stable.

I was happy to strike a deal for under $5,000 for an original Turbo II car with several upgrades, but I needed some bodywork. But traveling costs raised that budget to a total of almost $7,000. Today, it's safe to say you'll need at least $15K to get started with a car like this. If you just want the bone-stock, factory experience, I'd advise you go up to about $20K to $25K for a car in good shape and drive as much as you can. But, if you, too, grew up playing Need for Speed and watching The Fast and the Furious, a bone-stock RX-7 just won't do the job.

I was lucky enough when I started this journey to have my buddy Mike's help on the project. And my Greek friend from Rotary Secret Garage, who had put me in touch with the previous owner, was kind enough to advise me. The first thing you'll need to do before buying any part is establish a goal: will it be a street car, a race car, or a drift machine? Do you plan on getting up to 300 hp, 450 hp, or more? I wanted a mix between a street car and a drift machine, and I knew 450 hp would be the sweet spot.

But before buying any performance upgrades, I knew sorting out the cooling would be crucial! I ordered a Koyorad 53mm radiator for $450, which was the recommendation for my desired setup. The garage I asked to install ruined my factory fan and shroud setup, and I foolishly agreed to buy a Spal fan from them for $200.

The FC isn't as agile as the FD in stock shape, so HSD coilovers were next on my list for about $1,000. I immediately ordered an Adaptronic, complete with the wiring, which cost me an extra $2,000. With more power comes greater responsibility, so I found the right brake setup for my goal. Using Stoptech Slotted Rotors and Hawk Pads drained another $1,500 from my bank account.

When I got my braided brake lines, I realized they fit incorrectly. And I failed to ship them back in time due to the pandemic. So, I bought another set, spending $300 for both. A 30-year-old car needs a lot of maintenance and parts, and I knew addressing the brake calipers was just as important: add another $200.

Then more parts for the engine started pouring in from all corners of the world (the USA, the UK, Greece, Germany, and Japan). I think the Aeromotive Stealth 340 fuel pump cost me around $300. But that meant I also had to upgrade to 2,200cc and 730cc injectors, get an aftermarket fuel rail and a fuel pressure regulator, and get about another $1,000 as I got a good deal. Of course, an ignition upgrade was in order, too: the AEM High Output Inductive Smart Coil pack, MSD Ignition Lead Set, NGK Spark Plugs, and Earth Grounding Kit meant I had to wire an extra $1,000 to the company I worked with at the time.

Thank God my buddy Mike was kind enough to give me his used RX-8 starter motor for nearly nothing: I don't have to wait until the fifth try to get my car going! Did I mention that you'll most likely have to replace the master cylinder and clutch-slave once you get the car for another $200? I knew I was on my way to making 300 horsepower, but I felt safer ordering a new Front Mount Intercooler to replace the factory top-mount one, which is kind of small. I opted for a cheap solution, but it still cost $300.

The problem was my engine was still heating up like crazy, and I just didn't like taking risks like that. So I ordered two massive Spal fans that are so loud you can barely hear the engine from the front part of the car. It cost an extra $500. I won't mention all the little bits and pieces I had to order (Think alternator pulleys, FTP lenses, trunk lift shock struts, steering wheel, DTSS eliminator bushings, etc). And I'm almost close to mentioning all the bigger parts: the Panasport G7 C5C wheels cost just under $1,500, but they were a great investment!

Don't buy replica wheels when you can buy OG rims for the same price. Sure, they need refurbishing, but they're at least two levels above some of the fake wheels on the market today. I bought a pair of Michelin test tires (225/45/17) for $200. But that's not the end of it. I've just started doing visual upgrades: the Foresight rear roof spoiler is a great addition for $300. Handling the bodywork and painting the car set me back $2,000, and only because the guys who dealt with the job wanted to help me finish the car in time for a big event.

You may have noticed that I haven't said anything about man-hours here. I'm not good at working on cars, and I wouldn't have gotten here without my buddy Mike. He must have put in almost 400 hours on my FC RX-7, which should translate to roughly $4,000 if you think about it. I hope you all find a friend like him or someone with his skills if you want more cash for parts. This all adds up to $23,350.

And it doesn't include parking fees, insurance fees, other government-imposed taxes, fuel, and expenses I've had with various shops I worked with. The car runs fine right now, but at 0.3 bars of boost it's not very impressive (at least not after you've driven a 500-hp FD). It will all be better once we dial in the map for 300 horsepower, which should be the limit on the stock turbo with upgraded everything.

Upcoming Expenses

Project cars are a continuous money pit, so you should always plan carefully. Right now, I am aware I need a new turbo to get up to 450 horsepower. The Turblown Cast EFR IWG Turbo System with an EFR 7670 at its heart will easily set me back an additional $4,000. But I'm almost certain that will require a bigger intercooler and who knows what other unexpected upgrades.

Even when I get to that point, many chassis upgrades remain. The Ford 8.8 IRS Mount kit with Axles from Ronin Speedworks will cost another $1,500. I'm also eyeing the Parts Shop Max Super Angle Kit, which is listed at just over $1,000. And then, a pair of Recaro bucket seats, a roll cage, an upgraded pedal box, and a fire extinguisher.

It just never ends! By the time you're done building a race car out of an FC RX-7, you'll have spent over $40,000. You can just enjoy daily-driving a 2024 Mazda MX-5 for that kind of cash. It won't be as thrilling, but you'll get more seat time with zero headaches.